Torch Buying Guide for Glass Pipe Makers

What kind of torch do you need to make glass pipes?

This is the first and most important distinction for anyone starting in borosilicate glassblowing: not all torches are equal, and the common hardware-store torch is completely unsuitable for boro. Borosilicate has a much higher working temperature than soft glass, and you need the additional heat that oxygen injection provides.

Once you know you need an oxygen-plus-fuel torch, the next question is which one — and that starts with your budget, your space, and where you want to go with the craft.

What's the best torch for a beginner on a budget?

National torches have one important characteristic that trips up new buyers: they use interchangeable screw-on tips sold separately, and for borosilicate you need the OX-series tips. The torch body alone is not enough — you need to order the right tips at the same time.

A solid beginner tip set for boro work:

• OX-3 (.070″) — the versatile all-purpose tip. This is your workhorse for spoons and most beginner pieces. Start here.
• OX-4 (.082″) — for heating thicker tubing. Add this alongside the OX-3 from the start.
• OX-2 (.055″) — a narrower tip for fine detail work. Add this later as your skills develop.

The Devardi Gladiator is an alternative low-cost boro-capable starter that comes with tips included, which removes the "which tips do I need?" guesswork for beginners who want a simpler purchase.

Be honest with yourself: dedicated surface-mix borosilicate bench torches from premium makers start at a higher price point. The cheapest legitimate path into boro pipe making is a National hand torch with the right OX-series tips, or a good used torch — covered below.

Surface-mix vs. premix — what's the difference, and which do pipe makers use?

The National 3A-B is a premix torch — totally fine to learn on, but it makes flashback arrestors on both lines non-negotiable. As you progress, most pipe makers eventually move to a surface-mix bench torch for the better flame control and lower risk profile.

Bench torch vs. hand torch — which do you need?

The reason both hands must be free is practical: you are almost always rotating the tubing with one hand while pressing a graphite paddle, pushing with a tungsten pick, or managing a tool with the other. A hand torch locks one hand to the torch body, which severely limits what you can do with the glass.

A torch stand for the National hand torch is an inexpensive bridge solution. It holds the torch stationary at the right angle so you work with both hands free while you build skill — then you upgrade to a proper bench torch when you outgrow the National's capabilities.

What size torch do you need — and when should you upgrade?

Torch size roughly tracks with what you are making. A small or mid-size torch is perfectly capable for spoons, sherlocks, small bubblers, and detail work. Where beginners hit a wall is when they try to work large-diameter thick tube — the kind used for water pipes — on a torch that simply cannot maintain an even, enveloping heat across that much glass mass.

As you grow, a two-stage torch with independently controlled center fire and outer fire — adjustable from a pinpoint flame to a wide heat envelope — is worth the investment. The center fire handles detail and joins; the outer fire warms large sections evenly and prevents cracking. Many professional pipe makers cite the ability to blend these two independently as a game-changer for their work.

For the full beginner equipment rundown — torch stands, regulators, hoses, kilns, and safety gear — see the equipment guide.

Which torch should you upgrade to?

GTT — Glass Torch Technologies

GTT, based in Tioga, PA, is widely considered the gold standard of borosilicate pipe making torches, built around their patented Triple Mix surface-mix technology that allows the artist to dial independently between fuel-rich and oxidizing flames. The trade-off is real: you pay a premium, and GTT torches are hand-built to order with a waiting list. Standard production models — the Lynx, Bobcat, and Cheetah — typically take roughly three days to three weeks to build according to retailers. High-end special-order models (the Phantom, Mirage, Delta Elite, and Kobuki) can involve waits that stretch to a couple of months, based on maker community reports. Plan ahead if GTT is on your roadmap.

For most pipe makers upgrading from a starter torch, the GTT Lynx is the recommended first GTT. It is also the centerfire inside GTT's larger combination torches (the Bobcat, Cheetah, and others), which means the skills you build on a Lynx transfer directly as you scale up — you are learning on the same flame geometry that lives inside the bigger rigs.

Carlisle Machine Works

Carlisle Machine Works out of Millville, NJ, makes classic American bench burners with a loyal following in the boro community. The Wildcat is a popular surface-mix step-up for pipe makers moving off a starter torch. The CC is their professional workhorse: a two-stage design where the center fire is premix (pinpoint heat for joins and detail) and the outer fire is surface-mix (broad even heat for working larger sections). The hybrid design is deliberate and well regarded — artists who learned on a premix torch often find the Carlisle CC a comfortable next step.

Bethlehem Burners

Bethlehem Burners, from Hellertown, PA, produces an all-surface-mix lineup. Their entry model, the Alpha, is really a soft-glass and bead torch — not a primary boro torch. The Bravo is Bethlehem's first true boro-rated bench torch and is a well-regarded step-up from a starter. The Champion and Grand scale up for larger tube work and higher-volume production. If you want a full surface-mix torch from your first dedicated bench torch onward, Bethlehem is a strong path.

Nortel Manufacturing

Nortel, based in Canada, is widely known in the bead and soft-glass world for their Minor — but the Minor is a soft-glass torch and is not suitable as a primary boro pipe-making torch. Their boro-capable models are the Mid-Range and Red Max. If you already have a Nortel Minor for soft-glass work and want to add boro pipe making, the Mid-Range is the natural Nortel upgrade path.

How does your oxygen setup affect torch choice?

Beginners often pick a torch first, then discover their oxygen supply cannot keep up with it. Concentrators are convenient (no tank refills, no delivery logistics) but their output is fixed — typically 5 LPM per unit. That is enough for small work on a modest torch. When you move to mid-size and larger bench torches, you will need either oxygen tanks or multiple concentrators running in parallel.

Propane is the standard fuel for beginner boro work. Natural gas is used in some professional studios where it is plumbed in, but propane from portable cylinders is what most home and small-studio artists start with. Match your fuel regulator to the tank type and confirm the fitting threads are correct before your first session.

Can you buy a torch second-hand?

What to look for when buying a used torch:

• No loud pop, bang, or backfire on ignition — these can be signs of internal damage or worn seals
• Valves turn smoothly with no sticking or grinding
• Torch face and ports are clean, undamaged, and free of heavy carbon buildup or warping
• Body shows no cracks, corrosion, or repair welds
• Budget to replace hoses and check fittings regardless of torch condition — old hoses are a safety risk

GTT, Carlisle, and Bethlehem are all known to help artists assess a used torch from photos or video. If you find a used torch and want a second opinion, reaching out to the original maker is a reasonable step before you commit.

Torch safety basics

Working with compressed gases and an open flame means a few non-negotiable habits:

• Flashback arrestors on both the fuel line and the oxygen line. A flashback can travel back through the hose into the cylinder — this is the most dangerous failure mode in a glassblowing studio. Do not skip these.
• Ventilation — proper airflow removes combustion by-products and any gas that escapes during startup and shutdown. The guide on setting up and testing your studio ventilation covers how to build a ventilation system and verify it is actually moving air at the volume you need.
• Cylinder security — chain or secure propane and oxygen cylinders upright. A falling cylinder can shear the valve and create a projectile.
• Oxygen fittings must be grease-free — oil or grease in contact with high-pressure oxygen can ignite spontaneously. Never use standard lubricants on oxygen fittings.
• Lighting order — crack propane first and light it, then introduce oxygen to tune the flame. Shut down by closing oxygen first, then propane, then bleed both lines.
• Leak checks — test every connection with soapy water before each session, especially after changing cylinders or reconnecting hoses.

Safety and studio setup are also covered in depth in the full beginner equipment rundown. If you are building your first studio, read that guide before your first torch session — the setup steps matter as much as the equipment choices.